![]() The Faster was just the mate Chevy was searching for-but if it was going to elope to America, GM’s marketing folks felt the truck needed a new name.Ĭhevy selected the acronym LUV, which stood for “Light Utility Vehicle.” Freshly adorned with Bowtie badging, the LUV arrived on North American shores as a 1972 model and technically became the first Isuzu-built vehicle sold in the U.S. And better still, since it was based on a existing Isuzu sedan, the new body-on-frame truck was ready for production. Called the Isuzu Faster, it was significantly smaller than the trucks in the current Bowtie lineup. Given that GM had just bought a 34 percent stake in Isuzu in 1972, the Japanese automaker answered the phone and told Chevy about a new light truck it was developing. This particular LUV rolled into a truck show held at a Summit Racing Retail Store. It doesn’t take much to make a LUV really stand out- a new set of wheels and some custom paint are all you need. Seeing an opportunity but lacking a product, the Big Three looked to Japan to quickly address a growing demand for small, economical trucks.įord hooked up with Mazda to rebadge its B-series trucks into the Ford Courier lineup and Dodge would eventually settle down with Mitsubishi for the Mighty Max/Ram 50 twins.Ĭhevy called Isuzu hoping for a little compact truck love. While these rigs worked great in agriculture, construction, and utility roles, they were often overkill for small businesses, hobbyists, and urban delivery routes. Generally speaking, the trucks coming from Detroit at the time were relatively large and rugged. * Lot Shots Find of the Week: Datsun 620 “Little Hustler” Pickup Truck (Image/ Chevrolet) Celica GT was Toyota’s Take on the 1960s Muscle Car ![]() * Check Out This 1972 Honda Z600-It’s a Former Autocross Champ However, I'll periodically check in on your progress.While much has been written about Japanese economy cars grabbing a share of the North American auto market in the 1970s, it’s also important to acknowledge the impact imports had on domestic trucks. I'll be spending a lot of time today working on my truck. This could prevent a lot of "tail chasing" on your part. Get the circuits working first, then make the switch to LEDs. Sometimes certain LEDs can be problematic. I'd suggest you get all the lights working with conventional incandescent bulbs first. Personally I don't like them, but to each his own. Get the dash (gauge illumination) lights working properly, then we'll move on to the turn signals. Once i get home i will mess with it some more.Īs I stated before, Let's tackle and solve one problem at a time. I think when i hit the turn signal i did not get an indicator lit up but cant confirm that right now. I already polished everything on the printed board so i should be good to go with that. If i dont like them i will get the filament type. Cant see what they look like yet though because its too bright outside. I replaced the bulbs with some led's since i have a bag of them already. They are only a buck a piece so no big loss. I had the parts store order me a few sockets since a few were in bad shape and broken. Loss of ground paths account for about 80% of the electrical problems in old vehicles. Given 40 - 50 years of vibration, rust, and general poor design, the ground becomes ineffective. the "J" clip is attached to the edge of the steel dash on the edge of the cluster opening. It's comprised of a wire with a "J" clip on the end. I don't like the factory ground for the cluster. If the factory ground is bad, your temporary ground hookup will provide a ground path and the dash lights should now work. Attach the alligator clip to a suitable bare metal location. Loosen the screw and slip the terminal eye under it and tighten (do not over tighten. Select a screw that passes through one of the traces. Loosen one of the screws that attach the printed circuit to the cluster housing. Attach an open ended terminal eye on one end and a small alligator clip on the other. You can "rig up" a temporary cluster ground wire for test purposes. In my first post in this thread, I alluded to checking fuses and grounds as the first first step. Yes, you're correct, it could be a bad ground connection. I missed this post of yours on my last read. ![]() So possibly the ground wire in the cluster harness is my problem? I grounded my meter to steel, not the ground wire in the cluster harness because i wasnt sure which one was the ground. One thing i did notice after i took my gauge cluster out this evening is that i had voltage on the grey wire.
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